Sunday, October 28, 2012

Charlie's town and runaway boats!

10/20/2012 =>Charleston, SC (anchorage)

This morning brings another milestone for us:  Charleston!  We left Prince Creek at 0750, with hopes of getting into Charleston by 1100/1130…but first we would have to make the last swing bridging into Charleston on time..We were late…again, but the bridge let us come through anyways!  We passed that first hurtle at 1100…now onto the second!
Charleston is an old city, which means an old port.  There are 2 marinas, one huge one located just outside the city’s main anchoring field, the other just north of the downtown area.  The huge one has a dinghy dock for those anchored out in the field…Both Mike and I had read many, many reviews about this anchorage:  most were that the location is excellent, but the atmosphere is not.  The anchoring area contains derelict boats, some at moorings, some partially sunk, and some washed ashore…all not a very telling visual.  Many of the reviews on activecaptaion.com stated loosing an anchor:  it would become stuck on the debris at the bottom of the area.  They all suggested using an anchor trip line to help retrieve the anchor when you are ready to leave. For whatever reason, I was not feeling to anchor there.  I called the 2 marinas:  both were booked until the following morning…shoot, we would anchor anyway!  We chose what we felt was a good spot:  we passed our friend Kissimmet and our pirate friend so figured if they were here, we should be safe!  We dropped anchor (and trip line).  We sat on the boat for close to 2 hours to monitor her holding:  she was sound!  I still felt weird and knowing the row would be insane across channel, took Salty with us in our exploration of Charleston for the day. 
We planned on walking along the waterfront to the downtown area:  something we didn’t do when visiting last April.  We passed many huge old houses and explored White Point Garden, one of the original battery/gun locations from pre civil war days (or I should say “the war”, there is only one down here.) As we meandered around the downtown area some more, we both became ravenous!  While looking for a place to eat that would be dog friendly, we stumbled upon a take out place located next to its main restaurant:  Hymen’s.  Unbeknownst to us, this is “the” place to get good southern food in Charleston!  The line for the restaurant was out the door, but we were hitting up the express, so just had to wait for our food to be done!  I decided to get shrimp and grits, which came with fries, coleslaw and hush puppies for 6.00!  Mike got the low country chowder and a seafood Panini.  Once we had our goodies, we went in search of a place to devour the food…and devour we did!  Those hush puppies were fried bits of heaven!!!  And my shrimp…mmmm…so good, and soooo bad for you!  We explored some more, even managed to watch some of a adult league rugby game (Mike’s first experience with the game)  but then started the long way back to the boat:  we knew we would be stuck on her for the rest of this night, as the tide would have changed to get us back to the boat…and we didn’t want to fight it to come back out.
At the dinghy dock, as I am taking the line off the cleat, I see a note tucked onto the cleat: “We have found a O’Day center cockpit dragging anchor down the channel.  We placed her across from the Coast Guard Station, please call”.  I quietly hand the note to Mike.  He reads it, and is like what?  I run up the dock to look out towards the Coast Guard Station, use my zoom from the camera to see  a boat at anchor:  our boat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Mike calls the number listed.  The guy is a fellow anchorer and they saw us leave earlier, after securing the boat came to drop the note off on our dinghy so we wouldn’t row out to the field.  He didn’t seem made, mentioned that he thinks the anchor line pulled out keel when the tide changed, hence the pulled anchor…ok..
With rapidly beating hearts, we head off to our boat!  Nothing can describe the feeling of seeing your boat not where you left it, about .75 miles away, and only .25 m from the Savannah breakwater…with the current running that way!  We board the boat, expecting to find some more notes about how idiotic we are, ect.  A guard at the Coast Guard station yells out to us: we thought we were in trouble for the boat being so close to them!  But he just wanted Mike to verify who he was, and that we were indeed the owners of this run away boat…the guard did holler “you should put more line out next time”…yea, it took a lot for mike to not say anything back to him, as we did put enough line out!  Both of us were ashamed and embarrassed!  We knew both the marinas were full;  we had nowhere else to go but back to the anchorage!  With heads hung low, we motored back over to the field, expecting the other boaters to point and laugh at us!  I was at the helm while Mike was about to drop the anchor again when “You and I, You and I, this is WindAway, over” came across the radio.  I grabbed the radio and replied back.  Windaway advised us to NOT anchor where we were at the time..Mike grabbed the radio from me and started talking to Phil:  Kissemet, WindAway, and 2 other boats we never met saw us dragging down the channel, got into their dinghy’s (with motors) and as Mike says, became the “super cruisers” to rangle down a runaway boat!  When they reset our anchor, they found a large piece of metal attached to the trip line:  the freaking trip line got stuck on some wreck at the bottom.  When the tide changed, the trip line stayed where it was, hitting the keel in the swing.  The trip line pulled the anchor up, hence the runaway boat!   We then try to find another good spot to anchor, this time closer to the bridge:  with the view of a ketch half sunk, its 2 mast sticking out of the water we hesitated to drop the hook here as well!  Again, over the radio “you and I, this is Kissemet, over”.  He advises us to not drop hook here, our other boat rescuer already lost his anchor there this morning (meaning it is stuck on something at the bottom and there is no way to pull it up), the boat also lost its chain, as the whole thing broke off!  Not sure what to do, we ask Kissemet if we can anchor near him, his reply “No, don’t come near us, my anchor is stuck.  I will have to cut it loose in the morning when we leave”.  WTF!  2 anchors and a runaway boat!!!  When we finally did drop the hook again, the sun had completely set, like it or not, we were staying put (hopefully) were we were….many, many drinks later we stayed up for the tide change, and didn’t go cruising down the river this time!  We barely slept though that night, constantly waiting up from every noise or wake movement thinking we were drifting!
10/21/2012 =>Charleston, SC (maritime marina)
By 0700, we headed over to the downtown side marina, hoping they would have a space available for us that early in the morning!...and they did, thank the Lawd!  I could have kissed the floating dock, I was so happy to be “moored” to something!!! After settling into the marina (staff was very cute, fyi!), walking salty, showering, and making much deserved pancakes, we again set off to explore Charleston, sans Salty this time.  Boht of us very much wanted to see Fort Sumter!  You can only get there by boat, and through one company.  We thought it would be super expensive, but was very reasonable and just up dock from where we were!  Its 30 minutes out, hour and a half at the fort, then 30 minutes back.  We really enjoyed seeing the fort and learning some new stuff:  what the confederate flag really looks like, what the fort when under, that South Carolina LOVES to be the “first” in everything…ha!
After the tour, we made a stop at a close grocery store; Harris Teeter.  Mike had gone in the day before to check it out, said I would love it as “it’s if Trader Joe’s and Shoprite had a southern baby”, ha!  He was right!  I like this store!  Cheap with good selection, woo! 
When we got back to the dock, we made friends with our neighbors and then had dinner:  we scheduled a ghost walking tour of Charleston/graveyards that night too!  The tour was fun, though I didn’t at all feel creeped out in any way!  Mike on the other hand got super cold in one of the graveyards and caught something funny on a picture he took from his phone...we will let you believe what you think!  Afterwards, we hit up Wet Willies:  a frozen margarita/daiquiri bar.  The drinks are cheap and all in slushi machinces behind the bar! We had stopped here last April as well!  And they are opening one in NYC, for your information!  I would make a stop there when it opens, but most likely it will be in a tourist section and just annoying to be in…We got abck to the boat late…and very exhausted!  Happy to be at a marina for the night thoughJ

 
 
 

Prince Creek: Crocki-turtles & snorting dolphins


10/19/2012 =>Prince Creek
0515: sigh, sometimes the best laid plans never work out.  Because of the previous days journey’s fight with the tide, we decided to leave with the outgoing tide, regardless of the time in the morning.  This seemed like a great idea, until we left the city proper;  water as black as ink, no amount of light able to breach the deep, scary channel beyond.  And then the rain started.  We didn’t make it more than a mile from Georgetown before captain called it quits; we anchored just outside the major channel just as the skies completely opened up and the rain drove down in sheets.  It seemed even Mother Nature preferred us to wait out the rising of her sun; by 0700 the rain disappeared and the sun’s rays were enough to continue on.  The ICW at this point goes rather far inland, as opposed to staying along the coast.  This does mean less of a chance for shoaling, but we are in and out of fresh water rivers.  The landscape is mostly marshes, which is very pretty…but while just slowly motoring through, a little boring!  We did hear a boat behind us hail another about a “gator” being off his portside…I was hoping this was only sailing lingo for some random object in the water, but an actual alligator.
1545:  We set the anchor in Prince Creek.  This is not really a creek, as I would think of it, rather a large tributary to the Atlantic Ocean.  The waterway is very deep (40’ in some locations) and surrounded by tidal marshlands.  At the end is an inlet into the Atlantic Ocean, about a mile and a half from where we dropped anchor.  The beach on either side of this area is said to be great for landing dogs;  we tried for a closer anchorage to the beaches, but did not feel right being that exposed to the inlet.  During our rather elongated journey that day, I had pulled up the dinghy to the bow of the boat for safe travelling; it was now mike’s turn to take it off and get ready to row the long way to the beach.  The tide was going out at the time, so getting to the beach shouldn’t be an issue, plus we were timing it to be already changed when we started back….unfortunately, as Mike pushed the dinghy over the deck, the seat popped off…and started to float down the creek towards the ocean!  Mike jumps into the dinghy and starts paddling ala Indian style as fast as he can to get the seat before it sinks!  Within minutes, both he and the now secured seat, are at least a ½ mile away from the boat and struggling against an almost low tide to make it back to the boat.  It’s at this point I see something in the water, out of the corner of my eye towards the port and bow.  It caught my eye as I thought it was a buoy, but then realized we were too close to shore for it to be:  when I turned my head, it was gone.  Odd, but I kept my eye over there just to be sure.  There it was again!  About 12-18” rising straight out of the water, a white turning to brown at the rounded edges…thing before it quickly disappeared under the water again.  I glanced back at Mike’s progress; he is about 50 ft from the stern and still struggling against the tide.  Now, I am fully aware of the fact that we are in salt water (can see the ocean for God’s sake) as well as the fact that there are no crocodiles area (or continent) but for whatever reason, this is the only thought that goes through my head!  A crocodile is going to attack Mike on the dinghy!  Visions of Crocodile Dundee go through my head!  So, what does an insane person do at this point, you ask?  Grab what she thinks will “stop” this evil monster from attaching!  Our aluminum hook!  Somewhere in the deep recesses of my brain, I am intelligent I SWEAR!  But as I am also a woman, I tend to over react in stupid ways…and don’t get all upitity ladies who are reading this; you know what I am talking about:  hearing a noise at night and grabbing a bat to go investigate by yourself.  It’s the same logic :)
Anyways, there I am at the stern (brandishing my hook), impatiently waiting for Mike to get there!  As he gets closer, I very quietly say (because you know the freaking thing can hear me AND understand English) “don’t slow down Babe”.  This of course causes Mike to slow down and ask “what??”  I repeat my statement; however he is reaching the stern.  I grab the line to tie off, telling him to not dawdle in the dinghy.  Once Mike is safely onboard (and giving me an odd look about holding the hook) I casually, as to not seem completely insane, explain that I think I saw an evil man eating crocodiles that was going to attack your dinghy poke its head up twice!  (wait for the reason why Mike is the right man for me…and go!)  Mike casually looks out over the area (pretty sure he asked God why his wife is so insane) before turning back to me: “You know there are no salt water crocodile in the Northern US, right? …but if there was, and you saw it coming towards me, all you would do is grab a metal hook?  WTF?”  followed by “look over on shore, there is a huge sea turtle”.  Crap.  Yea, that is what I saw poking its head out.  (still shaking my head)  Although, it would have been funny for a massive sea turtle to take out the dinghy…and to see a recording of me trying to hit it from the boat with an aluminum hook…
Massive crocodile attacks averted and the dinghy seat retrieved, we piled into dinghy and start rowing the long distance to the beach.  The tide is helping, but it feels like we are going forever!  As we get closer to the inlet, there is a motor boat at a random mooring there….but before we even reach it, I see 2 HUGE dolphins about 10’ from the dinghy….and as I overacted from the mutant crock/turtle incident moments before, chose to keep my mouth shut…until they were 1’ from the bow…and as I sit directly on the bottom of the dinghy, and since my dog has no idea what to do with these things (she hides under the bench seat) I felt the movement of them under my butt as the passed! AHHH!  This time I did scream…which I think took like 10 years (or some more hair follicles) off his life, he looked so startled!  I only said “dolphins” before Mike started to look behind him:  both dolphins again surfaced about 1’ from us…he understood why I screamed then…ha!
We started to pass the boat at mooring at this point.  Both the boaters came out to say hello, and offered us a tow back to our boat!  They were going to take the one’s dog ashore too and would gladly lend us the ride afterwards (their dinghy was a 12’ fishing boat with dual engines HA!)
When we finally made it to the beach (renowned for the shells you find there) we were able to meet up with the boaters:  2 guys who were just starting their annual fishing trip.  One owned the boat, James and his dog Maddy (ha!) the other was Steven.  Both grew up in the area and would be joined by other fellow married male friends:  this was apparently guys weekend out!  They gave us some pointers on the next’s day’s sail into Charleston and places to go/visit/eat/etc while there!  Salty got to play with the dog Maddy for about 45 minutes before we had to leave, so she was happy!
Salty's new beach buddy
 
being towed back to our boat
 
My shell spoils from the beach (pumpking NIC)
 
Once the sun went down, we relaxed and once again star gazed as the night was clear and peaceful…until I heard what sounded like a bull huffing next to my head.  Salty heard it too and jumped up to look around…and there is was again!  …and again!  Over there this time, or closer, or with more spray?…ohhhh its dolphins blowing out their spouts! Haha!  There must have been close to a hundred surrounding our boat!  We could hear them jumping, spouting, calling, and splashing all around us!  In the moonlight, we would occasionally catch them surfacing but for the most part relied on hearing.  They went quiet for a little while; Mike thought maybe they had gone inland or back out to the ocean.  I got up and went to the bow of the boat to turn off the main gas supply….I hear the snort followed by spray on my legs;  this sucker was super, super close to the back of the boat!  Again I screamed!  Annndddd while I know he didn’t do it on purpose, but…not 15 seconds after I screamed, a dolphin did that cackle, ala Flipper; was perfectly timed to seem like it was laughing at me J.  As the night wore on, the dolphins kept swimming around…and snorting…I don’t think either one of us would ever say this:  having dolphins surround your boat at night is really annoying, they are just so loud! Ha.

Friday, October 26, 2012

Reaching South Carolina!!


10/15/2012 => Calabash Creek, SC (our first stop in South Caro!)

The gourmet store opened at 0800…Salty and I were ready by 0815!  As Mike showered, I took Salty for her run and then hit up the coffee!  The store clerk fell in love with Salty right off the bat!  And of course, Salty acted like the perfect dog, sitting quietly outside the store windows…enough so, that the clerk (named Stef, originally from CT) commented that she wished her dog would be so good…ha!.  As a treat to Mike for letting me get my good coffee fix, I got him an egg, bacon, sausage, cheese Sammie on a biscuit (I asked if they had croissants, and stef replies “no, sorry.  I asked for that when I moved down there too…but they just replied No.  what you think this is, France?”  ha!)   With a fresh grilled Sammie, 2 huge coffees, and a HUGE bag of free dog treats we set out of the marina for Calabash Creek and South Carolina!
As were turned to enter into the creek we were to anchor that night, we saw a sail stuck on a sandbar:  could hear him talking to SeaTow for assistance.  Mike and I were nervous by seeing this!  We read and reread all the notices about this place on activecaption again just to make sure we didn’t run aground!  As we felt our way in, we saw another boat already at anchor:  Windaway!  We felt more confident when we saw them;  we have the same draft depth.  After we dropped our hook and relaxed a bit, making sure we were set well the stuck boat was pulled into the creek by SeaTow and dropped off:  apparently he too would be anchoring here!
I have to mention this, as its how to explain the next “story”.  When anchoring, there are a number of things you want to make sure you do.  First, is obvious to set the anchor as best as you can.  Second is to take into account where your boat is in relation to the surroundings:  land, sand, channels, other anchored boats, length of line out on anchor, if another anchor is all chain or line, etc.  Each boat will swing a little differently in the tides/currents, depending on their size, draft, and if they have a lot of chain on their anchor line (helps to hold the boat down, but also gets stuck in stuff).  We anchored a respectable distance from WindAway, knowing we would swing the same way/speed, but with lines at different lengths we didn’t want them ontop of us, or vice versa (not to mention if you break anchor, you go right into them!).  The boat towed in anchored on the other side of WindAway, in almost the same distance as us.  We were all happy…until a 38’ Catamaran came in.  Catamarans are the 2 hulled sailboats with the “bridge” in the middle.  They can easily go into 3’ of water and have a much different/heavy swing than single hull boats.  As 3’ was prominent throughout this creek up past where we were anchored, this boat is ideal for these type of creeks.  We had passed this Cat earlier and had an odd exchange with its captain:  a French Canadian man…with odd sea-decorum  Anyways, we watched him come in, envying his ability to go up stream….and oddly he turns…towards us other anchored boats…in fact, he decided to drop anchor in-between us and WindAway…both Mike and Phil were standing on their respective decks, like “are you f’in kidding me?” looks on their faces.  The cat seemed oblivious to either Mike or Phill’s comments about him swinging differently, etc and just went back below.  Ha!  Mike and I were amazed at the brass on this guy!
Watchful Captain
 
We then blew up the dinghy to go ashore…and by “a shore” I mean the small little stretch of beach/oyster shells exposed at low tide, ha.  Salty seemed to enjoy it though, as she raced up and over the shell hills, over the exposed flats, into the water….best part is when we decided to follow her out to the furthest point.  We both had our flip flops on and quickly discovered walking inland was a mess:  we would follow the dog and walk at the water line.  I went first before Mike and would step fairly quickly, but still sink or slide every once in a while thinking he was watching where to step lightly or quickly;  I should have known better!  I hear him yelp followed by a sink quashing sound:  Mike is stuck in the mud up to his knees.  Of course I laugh, watching him struggle and sink deeper; salty even came to stand right next to him and almost seem to ‘laugh’…After a bit, I took pity and made my way over, careful to not sink in as well.  As he pulled up the first leg, he started to lose his flip flop, but barely managed to wedge it out…the second foot was not so lucky!  As soon as his foot came out, the shoe was covered whole in mud…and btw, this is not normal mud…its tidal mud:  thick, sludgy, black, and stinks to high heaven of sea ass.  As a good wife (and to make up for laughing so hard) I stick my hand into the sludge and dig for the shoe:  eww, serious that is soo gross!  Ahaha!  I rescued it though, I am awesome!
After dinner that night, the wind picked up a lot!  Around 2200, we heard the Cat start her engine:  he was obly about 15’ off our stern and 5’ from WindAway’s anchor line.  When Mike called out are you moving, he replied in a sneer “yes because you are both drifting”…ummm ok, so we check our anchor…nope, we were not drifting!  I think this was his way of acting like our proximity was our fault, not his…whatever.


10/16/2012 => North Myrtle Beach, SC
0830:  We did NOT sleep very well last night!  As the wind picked up, we felt like we were dragging!  I don’t think we did, but was harrowing none the less!  We thought we would stay in Holden Beach for this night, but upon closer inspection, I saw a cheaper marina in N. Myrtle Beach…with a close Super Wal-Mart and Food Lion!!!  We need to do a re-provision badly:  out of water, marine tp, drinks of any kind, meat, bread, etc!
1130:  Doc Holiday’s Marina!  We got diesel first before heading into our slip.  The place is very, very quiet…and even though there are 3 restaurants surrounding the marina, I don’t think they are open.  We talked to the dock master, a very nice middle age man from the area, about getting to the Wal-Mart/food lion and beach, then stowed Salty for a couple hours to do some shopping!  When we finished our shopping, we set off to the beach.  North Myrtle is a little more…run down than Myrtle proper.  Main Street seems to be the center of the beach-type shops, restaurants, bars, etc.  We biked all the way there, about 2 miles.  Mike decided he wanted to get some grub, so after much debate we settled on a 50’s style pop place (they had outdoor seating).  We finally made it to the beach around 1330, and stayed until 1600!  A local bar we had seen earlier was having 1.00 Miller/Cooler bottles, so of course we had to stop there on the way back!

North Myrtle Beach
 
Beer so cheap, even Salty got one!
 
The dock master said he would leave the back porch door unlocked:  we could plug in/wifi there all we wanted.  YEA!  Mike popped our stove popcorn and I set up the comp to watch the first episodes of this seasons Grimm.  Again, very riveting I know, but we decided to use the computer time for pure fun, no emails/facebook/blog etc! 
 
 
 
10/17/2012 => Thorough Faire Creek (Belin), SC
0815:  we set out for a quiet anchorage about 7 hours south.  There are other anchorages closer, however our anchoring guide SkipperBob will list anchorages that are “dog friendly” meaning a place to a least let them out for a little walk, if not a whole town to run in.  This place was rated very highly for the “large sand dune” right next to a scenic and quiet anchor field.  Oh, and mid way through our morning we received a call from the dock master at Doc Holidays!  He just wanted to wish us well, thought that was sweet!

 Thoroughfaire Creek
 
1530:  We arrived at the anchor area, the large sand dune rising steeply out of the water to the left, a marsh bending up river to the right…and cypress trees complete with Spanish moss all around!  The area had a distinct…floral smell to it.  We rowed ashore to the dune and quickly traversed it out of sheer curiosity:  the area behind is actually a state park/reserve!  We ran around exploring deep water filled ravines in the landscape and paths through the cypress trees:  was like a movie set actually! 
Spanish Moss!
Cypress Tree "Where's Waldo?"
Because we were so far away from civilization, the night sky was super illuminated! We could see the stars reflect upon the water, they were that bright!

10/18/2012 =>Georgetown, SC
0800:  We pulled anchor early to a calm and steadily flowing out creek.  It wasn’t long before we rejoined the ICW that we hit its tide…which was against us.  Slow going for the You and I this morn! We arrived at the Georgetown, SC free dock by 1100.  The dock is only for the daylight hours though!  I needed a shower, so unfortunately broke down and paid the local marina for one:  meanwhile Mike went through the fishing section of the town!  When I finished my shower, he brought me to the fresh caught stands:  lots of shrimp, clams, oysters, and random fish I am horrible at identifying all sitting on ice, just brought in that morning!  And the prices were really good!  We bought a pound of large shrimp and 3 dozen clams…for 9.75! hahaha!  My plan was to make a jambalaya that night for dinner!
Georgetown is home of the Wooden Boat festival (set to take place that weekend) and paper milling, among other things throughout history.  We explored some old plantations located within the city..and went in search of our first Piggly Wiggly!!!  We didn’t feel like we made it the south until we went into one!  After the joy of the Pig, we headed back to the boat:  but first, had to stop along the way at the city's boardwalk...Happy Hour specials, for both drinks and ice cream would need to be called upon :)  We moved the boat to the mooring feild:  located about 100 yds from the dock!  My jamba was awesome, btw!  Super proud of myself, as I have limited spices/cooking utensils on board!
Piggly Wiggly excitement!
 
 
 
 
 
 


Cape Fear & St James

10/13/2012 => Bald Head Is, NC/Cape Fear

Our sail over was supper swift:  the current alone pushed us to 5kn, the wind another 3…!  While we were on the ICW for most of the way and protected, we would have to go “out” a bit on the River and face the winds/seas.  We heard over the CB a sail was capsized in the inlet…so our sail was staying down!
A little too much heeling for me

There is only 1 marina on Bald Head Island, one ferry, and NO cars.  The entrance to the marina is located fairly close to the ocean inlet and very well “protected”…or hidden.  At first glance, it looks like you are trying to beach the boat (yes, I asked Mike this) before you turn into a very narrow breakwater.  The marina is surrounded by very, very nice homes!  Immediately you are struck by the …beauty of the area!  We had heard tale this island was the “block island” of the Carolinas: we LOVED Block Island!  Once we were settled at dock, we ran to the showers, then prepared to bike around.
Figuring out where we are...
The island is gorgeous! Sandy white beaches,  large cape houses arranged in clusters, a salt marsh reserve, wild animals (was almost taken out by a deer)…Best part is the “no cars” rule.  As you go along the shaded roads, what sounds like The Jetson’s come to life will pass you by!  I really want a golf cart now! Ha.  The only shopping on the island is a little “village” of stores:  grocery, restaurant, knick knacks, art gallery, clothing, and a bike shop.  We were getting a lot of comments on Salty and her bike cart throughout the island:  specially since there are no cars, we left the screen open for her to stick her head/body out!  We saw at the bike shop one of the designated “doggy” carts for 300.00, used!  While it is smaller than the child’s one we are using, I saved a ton of money on NOT getting one meant strictly for dogs, joy! Ha.
Salty misses George
 
Since we were on the island, of course we had to get to the cape area itself!  The water at the cape…dear lawd, I now understand why its cape “fear”!  Seeing the different currents mixed together with the winds…and the waves crashing into each other, shooting spray 10’ in the air…yea, really happy our boat will never experience coming into that inlet J.
AHHH! big waves!
We got back to the marina a little past 1830 and were pooped from all that riding!  The morning tide to get us out wasn’t until 12oo the next day: we would explore the island on foot a little more in the morning!
10/14/2012   Bald Head Is, NC => St. James Plantation
Since we are at the marina this morning and not rushing off:  Pancakes!!!  Yum!  After a nice leisurely breakfast, we walked up to the lighthouse (not Cape Fear Lighthouse, as that was removed in the early 1900’s, but another on the island) and explored a little bit more.  Pretty sure we will have a beach house on this island…when we can afford it!! We set off for an anchorage about 3 hours across the sound, just south of Southport NC.  We arrived at the Pipeline Canal around 1400. We tried to get into the main area, but no dice:  we were at slack tide, about to go to high with 4’10 showing on the depth finder…which would mean in the middle of the night, we would be on bottom…so we crept our way back out and headed even further south the only option around:  a marina called St James Plantation.  They offered Towboat US discounts (we technically have SeaTow), so ended up only paying 1.00 ft!  This is a marina enclosed in a gated community..and very, very nice!  We almost felt bad about taking the discount…almostJ.  There was a nice outdoor restaurant just up the dock we were on.  They had a guitar player out there for a couple hours, which was really nice to listen too!  The complex also housed a gourmet convenience store, with rave reviews about their coffee, so a must stop in the morning for me.
 
 

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Morehead and NC beaches!


10/08/2012 => Beaufort, NC…but really Morehead.
The beauty of not having an agenda:  can change your mind/course at will.  Again, we thought to go to Beaufort, NC (wild horses across the anchorage got me!) but … We crossed the bay out of Oriental in strong winds and huge swells!  Salty and I went below, as Mike figured we would be entering another canal as soon as we crossed and all would be calm again!  He did a wonderful job on navigating the rough water though!  High winds from this particular direction make anchoring off Beaufort very uncomfortable, so we switched up to its sister city, Morehead for cheaper dockage.  If you ever have been to Ocean City, MD then you can “see” what Morehead, NC is like! After showers, we walked the town (quite some distance) passing a pizza place.  As it was windy and drizzly, we decided to treat ourselves to a pizza that night.  Sigh.  I really miss NYC’s pizza!  It was good, but …just missing something!  When we came back to the dock, there was a 60’ iron hulled ketch docked next to us: its crew standing on deck.  All men in their late 20’s, early 30’s (oh, helloooo), slightly scruffy, and with accents!  We meet the owner of this old monster:  a guy from Gloucester MA heading down to St Martin with this tank to open boat bar.  His friends (some Irish dudes and a couple Bostonians) were helping to make the run with him; the ocean was rough, so they came into port.  I may have missed out on seeing wild horses across from the boat, but these guys were a nice alternative!  And hey, before you go thinking I am a horrible person, I have been surrounded by old creepy men (and Mike) for 6 weeks, ha! 
Pic of me this time, for wendy:)
We needed to catch the right tide in the morning, which would not be until “late”.  We planned on leaving around 0900, which meant if I wanted to run and shower, I would be up super early…
 
10/09/2012 => Military Basin Anchorage
Post run and shower, we attempted to set off.  Unfortunately that tide we wanted to catch was strong enough to push the boat back…and into the ketch.  I managed to retie her just before she hit, thank the lawd!  The lovely men aboard the ketch came out to help push us clear (I think Mike was half grateful and half pride prickling, ha!).  Once we were back on the ICW trail, the winds were more…freezing!  Between the wet weather and the cold North winds, all three of us were shivering!  I broke out the hat/gloves/scarves and blankets on deck.
Freezing on deck!
 
Tonight at anchorage, Miles Hammock Bay, there would be NO rowing ashore for Salty:  this is an active military base!  Instead, we stopped at a small marina for fuel, let her run around for awhile and headed off again.  Once we were in the bay, we saw 4 other boats at anchor: 2 we have seen before ‘Kissemet and WindAway.  We don’t know the owners, but have passed/been passed by them many times.  The fog rolled in early that night, coating everything with a fine, cold mist (joy..)

10/10/2012 => Wrightsville Beach, NC
0630:  leaving our anchorage in the basin.  I notice more boats came in overnight too!  We had a medium length day ahead of us, with light at the end of the tunnel being a BEACH!  The sun was shining, winds were warmer, all was right in the world; minus the cold wet feeling of the previous night’s fog.  We had a series of bridges to catch that morning, hence us leaving so early!  We were passed by our fellow anchorage buddies, just enough that we could see their masts still in the distance.  The first bridge, Surf City Swing Bridge, opens only every hour on demand.  We could see it, could hear the other boats hailing an opening…and then the bridge tender hailed us!  We were surprised, as we assumed we would be waiting for the next opening…not to mention that he couldn’t see our boats name from that distance!  He asked us our eta:  according to our chart plotter is was 1007, 7 minutes after his opening.  He said he would try to get us through, but we would have to hurry…so we did!  We could see the bridge delaying opening until 1005!  We made it through, the last of the boats!  We didn’t realize how many other boats went through before us (meaning they had to wait for our slow butts)  4 large cabin cruiser/trawlers, 4 sails.  Whoops!  But hey, at least one of those boats must have radio’d the bridge that we were coming from way behind, in order for them to know our name!
1121:  They say along the ICW; ‘there are 2 kinds of ICW travelers, people that run aground and liars.”  Because we booked it to the Surf City Bridge, we were caught up with the rest of the boats, which proves a blessing!  We could hear the radio flair to life:  one of the trawlers had run aground, hard!  ICW is technically maintained by the state and USGC, however with so many inlets, many shoals (sandbars) build up quickly.  There are known areas of shoaling, these are called out on guides or even in ActiveCaptian.com.  After hearing the trawler, I hoped onto activecaptain, as none of our guides said anything…and got nothing.  There is no information for this area.  As we got closer, WindAway radioed back to us that not only the area where the trawlers are is shoaled, but he too was skimming by on the other side, for us to give the green can a wide berth, but stay away from the shore line….great!  Mike sends me upfront to try and “see” our way through.  I can see the shallow bar off of starboard and the green can off the port.  I hollered back to mike to slow down, and to go a little towards port..and the green can…and all came to a grinding halt!  We went from 15’ of water to 3’6.  After the jarring/scrapping sound, Mike throws the boat into reverse, but tide was already taking the stern.  We spin into the shoal even more:  we were wedged into it hard.  With the promise of the incoming tide, we set up to find which side held more depth:  we knew we would not move until high tide…or have to call SeaTow to drag us out.  Over the radio, a French voice called out “Sailboat at green can, are us stuck?”  The trawler who ran aground first was hailing us!  He had just gotten himself off the bar up further!  He asked if we wanted to be pulled…so Mike accepted.  This boat seems really, really huge when it came right up to the bow!  Apparently he was in 11’ of water only 4’ off the starboard bow, ha!  We attach our lines, and he guns if backwards…we are jerked to the right, hearing the scraping of the keel and haul.  The boat starts listing as its dragged!  I grab Salty and the closest cleat, holding on for dear life!  The keel is making this horrible “thump, thump” sound as it drags, sand picking up so much to turn the blue water brown. Just when we are at a 25’ angle and I am pretty sure we are going over, she breaks loose and flies back upright!  We are FREE!!!Mike hurry’s to get the lines from the boat, tells me to put it in gear, and follow the trawler ASAP!  My arms and legs were still all jelly like as I motored after the traweler, sure to keep up with him as he lead the way! But we survived our first grounding!

We had one more hurtle:  the Wrightsville Bridge.  This bridge only opens every 60 minutes (boo) with very strong currents,with the next opening at 1330. We were about an hour/hour and half away from the bridge itself:  it was just passed 1200…Once again, as we saw the bridge, with 5 minutes to go to open, we hailed them…he said he would try, then contacted all the southbound boats, telling them to let the North Bound go through first, as there was a sail coming down that wanted to make this bridge!  Ahahaha!  We then got a hail from one of the boaters “You and I, you better hurry up!”Guess they knew who was coming!
We did make it, the last boat through…and just as we were within seconds of clearing, the bridge started to beep close!  We hailed our thanks to both the bridge, and those who waited for us!  WindAway came back with “you sure are lucky with those bridges today…not so much the sandbars though”.  We got a good chuckle out of that.

We anchored at Wrightsville Beach, NC basin around 1430…and we spotted our “waldo” on the way in (pirate ship guy) and another ODay Sailboat…looks just like us, but without the aft cabin!  WindAway hailed us at anchor, asking about the sandbar, etc.  We offered to have them over to our boat for drinks that night, which they agreed.  I blew up the dinghy on the ride over, so once we collected our beach stuff, we were off!  BEACH!!!!!!!!!! Before this trip, Mike promised me that most of our anchorages would have sandy beaches to layout on, and every other day we would be at a beach, where I could layout and read, play with Salty, etc…yea…that didn’t happen!  This is my first “beach” day this whole trip;  I was excited! 
We got back to the boat around 1730, hailed Windaway, and they planned on coming over by 1800:  Bonnie and Phil are retired cruisers, probably in their mid 60’s, but very young/healthy looking.  We had a good time talking to them, and them to us about our different takes on this ICW cruising, as well as how to prepare for it. 
BEACH!!!
We liked this area, so decided to stay (its free afterall) for tomorrow as well. 
 

10/11/2012 Wrightsville Beach, NC
When we went into walk Salty last night, we had met our pirate friend at the dinghy dock.  He fortold (feel like I have use pirate talk when referring to him) of a grocery store down yonder, about a mile as the crow flies…and of 2 good bars that were really cheap in Wrightsville.  I looked up the grocery (Food Lion!!), its distance, and the fact that there was a Starbucks right in the parking lot, happy day!!!  We got up leisurely, rowed the mutt ashore for her walk, broke out the bikes, rowed mutt back to the boat, came back and off we go, ha!  The ride was very nice, even though it was on major roads!  There was plenty of room for bikes!  I heard the “hallelujah” chorus go off in my head upon spying that beautiful green mermaid…The day was a little chilly, though sunny, with just a hint of crispness to the air..which then equals perfect reasoning for my indulgence:  Skinny Pumpkin Spice Latte!  Sigh…it was soooo good.  Sigh.
By the time we finished grocery shopping (I broke down and bought box wine…hanging head in shame) the weather had turned a bit warmer, enough to sit on the beach!  We biked back and got the Salt for a beach walk!  

She has a "sand" snorting problem: its how she stays so thin...ha.


When we started to row back for dinner, we stopped by the other ODay to talk them, ask if they wanted to go grab a beer at the bar tonight:  the guy said they only had 10.00 to their name, so no…neither Mike or I was sure what to say to that….
After dinner, we rowed back ashore in search for pirate suggested cheap beer, and found it at this dive called Red Dog. Some of their specials included a 24oz of PRB for 1.00…so needless to say, it was an amusing row back to get Salty out for her walk….ha.

10/12/2012 => Carolina Beach, NC
We received a lovely tip from WindAway about Carolina Beach:  the city had moorings for 20.00 a night, but you had to call in advance.  They gave us the number, we reserved, and were off for our new destination by 0900.  Carolina Beach is only about an hour sail away, but we wanted to be able to take advantage of the day as much as possible! 

1120:  we grab our mooring…and start to look for the dinghy dock. Activecaptian.com showed it at the end of the channel, right in the heart of the town. Unfortunaly, that was mad far away J.  As we were preparing all our stuff to take the long row ashore, up come our pirate!  He had left early that morning and anchored up further from the moorings:  he too is a rower.  He confirmed the dinghy dock being really far away, and to be careful when we row back:  the wind was set to change and make it for a really unpleasant ride home.
 
The long row...
Armed with that knowledge, we still set off…and keep going, and going, and going…dear lawd, was it far!  The channel is lined with many bayside houses, so at least there was something to look at!  Once off the dinghy, we headed inland:  as we arrived at the mooring, mike spotted his version of the green mermaid, the golden arches.  As I really wasn’t feeling making lunch, I condoned this stop to McDonalds.  Lunch cost us a whopping 6.75 total thoughJ.  We stumbled upon the “boardwalk”, a series of shops/restaurants just off the actual boardwalk.  The place was a quasi ghost town, as its off season but I can imagine in midsummer it’s really fun! 

The actual boardwalk sits right on the dunes, only about 6’ wide with many built in benches and palm trees.  We walked up a bit to be even with the dinghy area before setting ourselves on the beach.  The wind was calm, the seas were warm, sun was hot…it was wonderful!  Even Salty seemed to enjoy sitting under the umbrella and people watching!  We stayed until 1730, when Salty decided she had enough: a couple walked by us and Salty decided to scare the life out of them by jumping up and running over…barking all scary dog like!  I was embarrassed!  I took this as her “I am done” mode.

We started our row back out...and it was my turn to take the oars (I volunteered to get the arm workout):  so there we were, Salty, Mike, beach bag, blanket, towels, umbrella, and a 20lb bag of ice rowing slowly up the little harbor.  We passed many people along the shore who were laughing at our spectical, however it was only one old man who had the guts to shout out "That there is a lucky son of a bitch!  Look at him, he got it right"!  Mike obviously thought this was hysterical! 
About a 1/4 of the way out, Phil from WindAway spotted us from his dinghy;  he had just come back from paying the dockmaster for the mooring and offered us a tow to the dockmaster!  We didnt want to make him wait, so told him to leave us at the dockmaster's office, he already took out 1.2 our row for us!  As we (I) started to again row back to the boat, we were flagged down by Kissemet in their dinghy!  We have never actually met Kissemet before, but have been passing them/passed by/same anchorage, etc since Annapolis.  We introduced ourselves, and they too offered the tow to our boat!  WOOO!  This is the easiest "row" I have ever had!
We enjoyed another gorgeous sunset that night!  As the night went on, the winds became more and more wild!  Both of us were sooo happy to be at mooring!  Also, since Mike’s bathroom is beyond stinky (honestly, its NOT his fault…there is something wrong with the head!) I didn’t feel it was healthy to sleep in there (really, it’s where Salty sleeps too…), so I gave up my berth, salty and I would sleep on the pullout.  I think Mike has a new understanding of why I don’t sleep at anchor:  from the v-berth you hear every little sound the lines make, the water rushing by the bow, the wind howling through the sheets or mast, the creaking of the boat, etc.  I am relatively used to it now, however, he is not! Haha! 
Tomorrow is Cape Fear River, where the current rivals that of the East River:  if you aren’t going the way it is, you just aren’t going…